Glendalough with children exploring the Upper Lake
The Valley
Glendalough looks simple online.
Two lakes.
A few walks.
Mountains all around.
In reality, it’s a place shaped by choices — and for families, choosing the right valley matters far more than trying to see everything.
We’ve been to Glendalough many times over the years. Always as day trips. Always by car. Across different seasons.
Each visit felt slightly different depending on weather, age, and energy levels.
What stayed consistent was this:
you don’t need all of Glendalough to have a great day here with kids.
You just need the part that fits.
Why Valley Choice Matters at Glendalough
Glendalough isn’t one experience — it’s two.
The Lower Valley is forgiving, gentle, and flexible.
The Upper Valley is steeper, more dramatic, and asks more of everyone.
Most family stress here doesn’t come from the weather or crowds.
It comes from picking the harder option too early.
Or trying to combine both valleys into one day without leaving room for breaks, play, and negotiation.
The Lower Valley: Where Family Visits Should Begin
Our first visits were when our daughter was around four.
We still had a buggy.
The Lower Valley was the obvious choice.
Everything works in close proximity here:
- the Lower Lake
- monastic ruins
- flat, wide paths
- picnic tables and open grass
It’s easy to wander without committing to distance or elevation.
Miner’s Road (Purple Route)
The Miner’s Road is one of the most family-friendly walks in Glendalough — and it’s often overlooked.
- flat, wide, well-surfaced
- buggy-friendly for most of the route
- around 2 km each way (approx.)
It leads toward the old Miner’s Village and works perfectly as an out-and-back walk for younger kids.
Beyond the village, the surface becomes stonier and the climb steeper — a natural turning point if you’re pushing a buggy or managing short legs.
What worked for us was deciding in advance:
this is enough.
No loops.
No pressure to “continue on”.
Why the Landscape Feels Bigger Than It Looks
Glendalough sits in a classic U-shaped glacial valley, carved during the last Ice Age.
That shape explains the whole experience:
- broad lower ground
- steep sides rising quickly
- wind that can funnel down the valley without warning
It also explains why distance feels deceptive.
What looks close across the lake often involves far more walking once you’re on the path — something families notice very quickly.
The Upper Valley: Earned, Not Automatic
We didn’t tackle the Upper Valley on our early visits.
And that was the right decision.
When we returned a year or two later — with our daughter older and fully walking — the Upper Valley highlights became achievable and genuinely enjoyable.
Poulanass Waterfall & the Spinc (Short Route)
The walk toward Poulanass Waterfall introduces the Upper Valley perfectly:
- a short but steep initial climb
- a quick reward at the waterfall
- natural stopping points along the river
From there, sections of the Spinc Trail (Short Route) open out into elevated viewpoints looking back down over the valley.
Seeing the full U-shape of Glendalough from above is one of those moments that lands.
Especially when kids realise how far they’ve climbed.
There were plenty of rests.
But the sense of progress kept motivation alive.
A Viewpoint, a Groan, and a Deal
The Glendalough viewpoint is one of those places that feels triumphant for adults — and deeply suspicious for children.
From the top, you can see everything below:
lakes, paths, forest,
and in the distance… the car park.
Close enough to spot.
Far enough to feel unfair.
That’s where the groans started.
From a child’s point of view, the destination is right there —
yet somehow still a long walk away.
This is where planning quietly paid off.
Before we’d even started the loop, we had a clear agreement:
chips and ice cream at the car park at the end.
No moving goalposts.
No renegotiation halfway round.
That promise did more work than encouragement ever could.
A few more rests.
Some light negotiation.
Eventually the path tips downhill.
The motivation holds.
A Lightly Comic Detour (and a Useful Lesson)
On one visit, I got sidetracked in the Wicklow Mountains National Park Information Office.
I assumed my wife and daughter had headed toward the waterfall.
They assumed I was just behind them.
There’s very limited mobile signal in Glendalough.
It took about 30 minutes of wandering, doubling back, and laughing at our own assumptions before we found each other again.
No panic.
Just mild confusion.
Then relief.
What catches families out here isn’t always the walking.
It’s how easy it is to drift apart without noticing.
A simple meeting point makes a big difference.
Managing Expectations (This Is the Bit That Matters)
Glendalough looks simple online.
In reality, it’s a lot of walking.
What catches families out is trying to do too much in one visit.
What worked for us was choosing one main walk, then letting the rest of the day follow naturally.
Doing less here usually leads to a better day.
Practical Notes (Worth Knowing)
Parking
Upper Lake Car Park
- limited spaces
- €5
- toilets + food vans + coffee + ice cream + chips
- spaces do turn over — waiting is often worth it
Lower Lake / Visitor Centre Car Park
- €5
- more walking required, but good access to the Lower Valley
Laragh Free Car Park
- an option, but increases walking distance a lot
Toilets
Clean, functional toilets at the Upper Lake car park.
Crowds
Busy with hikers, tourists, and locals.
Early arrival makes parking and walking easier.
Weather
Conditions change quickly.
Wind funnels through the valley.
Layers matter — even on dry days.
How Our Days Usually End
Our visits almost always end the same way:
Chips and ice cream from the food vans at the Upper Lake car park.
Everyone is happy tired.
The day feels complete.
The drive home through the Wicklow Mountains becomes part of it too — easing back toward the N/M11.
Traffic slows.
Campervans and cyclists appear.
The mountains soften as you leave them behind.
Sometimes we half-joke and call Glendalough the “Lake Louise of Ireland”.
Not because it’s the same.
But because kids can paddle at the lake edge, watch ducks glide past, explore ruins, climb a little, walk a lot — and spend a full day outdoors without being rushed.
One Honest Sentence for Other Parents
Yes — do Glendalough with the kids.
Just choose the right valley, plan small rewards, and don’t try to do it all.
That’s when Glendalough really works.
The view from Glendalough Viewpoint and looking down on Miners Village